Sled Dog Society of Wales
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Picture
Crate Training
​

The success of the crate method is based on the den-dwelling instinct of dogs.  Puppies consider a crate their den and will not relieve themselves in it unless it is absolutely necessary.  The crate soon becomes the puppy’s 'room of their own' or retreat.  They enjoy its security when they want to nap undisturbed.  It is handy for travel, to confine the puppy if they are ill, or just for general control.
 
An out-of-the-way spot in the kitchen is a good location for the crate.  Choose an area that is free from drafts and not too close to a heat source.  It is a good idea to confine your puppy to a restricted area in the house until he is trustworthy.  The kitchen is usually recommended because it is the centre of activity and the floor is generally tile or linoleum so it is easy to clean if there are accidents.
 
For bedding, use a towel or a piece of blanket which can be washed.  A puppy should not be fed in the crate and will only upset a bowl of water.  The puppy may cry the first night or two as they adjust to being alone in a new environment.  This is normal.  However, the crying may indicate his need to eliminate.  Take them outside.  If they do not eliminate return them to their crate, and do not provide attention.  To establish a crate routine for your puppy, close them in the crate at regular one to two hour intervals during the day (the times they choose to nap will guide you).  Close them in their crate whenever they must be left alone for a longer period of time.  Give them a chew toy for distraction and remove collar and tags which might become caught in an opening.  Take your puppy outside before play, when they awaken from a nap, after eating or drinking, before bedtime and before visitors arrive and before any activity which is likely to excite the puppy.
 
During the first week, your new puppy will be unable to go all night without eliminating.    For this reason, do not feed them or give them water three to four hours before their bedtime.    Set the alarm to take them out during the night.  When they eliminate praise them and reward them with a small amount of drinking water.  Work toward a morning feeding and watering schedule.  After a week or so your puppy should be able to sleep through the night and make their first trip outside early in the morning.  The goal in setting the alarm and in frequent trips outside is to help the puppy avoid making a mistake in his crate or in the house. 
 
When you take the puppy outside to relieve themselves, take them to a pre-selected area and issue a command for that purpose, such as 'business'.  Wait a few minutes for them to eliminate.  Do not play with him or take him for a walk; there are other times for these activities.  If they eliminate, praise them immediately and reward them by letting them roam freely in the house for a while.  If your puppy does not eliminate the first time, do not punish them.  Simply return them to their cage.  Wait 15 or 20 minutes and try again.  Eventually your puppy will learn what is expected of them.  If you consistently take them out through the same door, once they are trained they will go to the designated door to 'ask to go outside'.
 
Sniffing the floor, turning in circles and squatting indicate that they are about to eliminate - take them outdoors immediately.  Puppies that are calm and secure are easier to housebreak. Anxiety and fear can lead to bad behaviour.  This is why you should never shout at the new puppy, hit them or 'rub their nose in it'!  If you punish the puppy, housebreaking may take longer or not work.  A puppy will probably make some mistakes in the house.  When you catch them having an accident, say no' firmly and take them outside where they should have gone.  After a mistake, if possible, wait until the puppy relieves himself before returning them to the house to reinforce the training procedure.  Do not scold the puppy after them have made the mistake and left the area.  They will not associate your firm words with the mistake. Mop up the puddle with a rag, and then use the rag as a housebreaking aid.  Place the rag in the pre-selected outside area to help the puppy learn that this is where they should eliminate. Wash the soiled area with soap and water followed by a deodorizing solution or, in the case of a carpet, use a carpet shampoo and deodorizer.  Biological washing powder is great as it breaks down the enzymes in the urine. This in turn eliminates the scent from the area.  If the area is not deodorized, the puppy may return to the same area the next time they want to relieve themselves. 
 
Many deodorizing solutions are available.  Make certain the label instructions indicate that the solution is safe to use on the surface or carpet you are cleaning.  Even if housebreaking does not go smoothly at first, don't weaken.  Be persistent, patient and lavish the puppy with praise when they eliminate properly.  Some people who have problems housebreaking puppies are not consistent.  They may decide the weather is too bad to take the puppy outside and provide a paper for indoor elimination.  This just confuses the puppy.  If the weather is cold or if it is raining, the puppy will be in a hurry to relieve themselves and get inside.  The puppy must learn that they have to go outside in all kinds of weather.  Dry the puppy after they have gone outside in the rain or snow.  This can also be a time to give them extra praise and affection for eliminating properly.
 

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  • SDSW THERAPY DOGS HOME
    • NEW VOLUNTEERS >
      • NEW VOLUNTEERS PAPERWORK
    • ESTABLISHMENTS >
      • HOSPITAL REGISTRATION FORMS
      • SCHOOL REGISTRATION FORMS
      • CARE HOME REGISTRATION FORMS
      • OTHER BUSINESS REGISTRATION FORMS
    • CORPORATE PARTNERS
    • REGISTERED VOLUNTEERS >
      • VOLUNTEERS SDSWTD Merchandise
  • About
    • Club Ethos
    • Club Code of Ethics
    • Club Photos
    • Club Membership
    • Club Merchandise >
      • Pyrography
      • Car Decals
      • Clothing
      • Custom Embroidery Designs
      • Dog Accessories
      • Miscellaneous
    • Meet the Pack & Club Event Photos
    • Rainbow Bridge
  • Education & Public Speaking
  • Contact
  • Ain't Nothing But A Hound Day
    • Gleblands Park - Newport
    • Victoria Park - Cardiff
    • Romilly Park - Barry
    • Roath Recreation Ground - Cardiff
  • Club Sponsors 2024
  • Canine Care - First Aid & Health & Wellbeing
    • Canine First Aid Kit Contents
    • CANINE CARE >
      • Anal Glands/Sacks
      • Burns
      • Coconut Oil
      • Dental Care
      • Dry Dog Food
      • Grooming and maintenance
      • Heat Stroke
      • How To Trim Your Dogs Claws
      • Nutrition
      • Raw Feeding
      • Spaying & Neutering
      • Toxic Food - Fruits, vegtables & Fish
      • Turmeric Powder
      • Vaccinations, Worming, Microchipping >
        • HOMEOPATHIC VACCINES - NOSODES & TITRE TESTING
        • Kennel Cough
        • Microchipping
        • Worming, Flea & Tick Prevention & Parasites
        • Vaccinaions
      • Veterinary Clinical Examination
      • Vitaimin E
      • Zinc Deficency
    • Bandaging & Wound Cleaning
    • Emergency First Aid A-Z >
      • Abscesses
      • Adder Snake Bite
      • Bee Stings & Insect Bites
      • Bleeding (external)
      • Bleeding (internal)
      • Bloat
      • Chemical Burns
      • Choking
      • CPR - Cardio Pulmonary Resusitation
      • Dehydration
      • Dental Emergencies
      • Difficult Births
      • Drowning
      • Eye Injuries
      • Electrocution
      • Fainting - "Syncope"
      • False Widow Spider Bite
      • Fever
      • Fox Bites
      • Fractures
      • Heatstroke
      • Hot Spots - Canine Acute Moist Dermatitis
      • Hypothermia
      • Nose Bleed
      • Paralysis
      • Poisoning and Exposure to Toxins
      • Penetrating Injuries
      • Rat Bites
      • Seizures
      • Shock
      • Straining & Constipation
      • Transporting Injurerd Dogs
  • Health & Wellbeing
    • Abnormal Heart Rhythm in Dogs
    • Alaskan Husky Encephalopathy (Sub acute Necrotizing Encephalomyelopathy)
    • B12 Deficiency or Cobalamin Malabsorption
    • Breathing Difficulties
    • Canine Athletes Heart Syndrome
    • Congenital Heart Disease in Dogs
    • Epilepsy
    • Hip dysplasia
    • Hypoglycemia
    • Hypothyroidism & Hyperthyroidism
    • Joint Luxation
    • Ligament and Tendon Tears
    • Metabolic Myopathy
    • Paw Pad Problems
    • Portal Systemic Shunts
    • Pyometra & Cystic Endometrial Hyperplasia
    • Snow Nose
    • Stomach Ulcers
    • Tendonitis
    • Urinary Tract Health
    • Infectious diseases >
      • Alabama Rot
      • Cryptococcosis
      • Distemper
      • Erlichiosis
      • Hepatitis
      • Histoplasmosis
      • Parvovirus
      • Rabies
  • Controlling Your Dog In Public
    • Banned Breeds
    • Dangerous Dog Act 2017
    • Dog fouling
    • Public Spaces Protection Orders
    • XL Bully Law 2024
  • Donation & Fundraising
    • Easy Fundraising
  • Evolution Of Dogs
    • Breeds >
      • Alaskan Husky
      • Aalaskan Klee Kai
      • Alaskan Malamute
      • Chow Chow
      • Crossd Breed - Huskamute
      • Greenland Dogs
      • Japanese Akita Inu & American Akita
      • Samoyed
      • Siberian Husky
      • Tamaskan
      • Czechoslovakian wolf dog
      • Saarlooswolfhond
      • Timberwolfdog
  • Equipment
    • Collars
    • Cooling Coats & Mats
    • Scooters, Dry Land Rig and Sleds
    • Walking Belt
    • Dog Weather Shelter
    • Head Collar
    • Leads
    • Harnesses
    • Stake out lines
  • Puppy and dog walking tips
  • Training
    • Agility Training
    • Canicross
    • Crate Training
    • FLYBALL TRAINING
    • Heelwork to Music Training
    • Obedience training >
      • Bite Inhibition
      • Leave it Training
      • Recall Training
      • Sit Training
      • Sit & Stay Training
      • Walking to Heel Training
      • Working In Racing Harness Sled/Dry Land Rig or Scooter
    • RING CRAFT TRAINING
    • Scent Training
    • Temperature Guide to Safely Work Your Dog
    • Toilet Training
    • Vocal Commands
    • Weight Pull Training