Working A Dog In A Racing Harness or X-Back Harness
Always start any dog training with the correct equipment. An x-back harness is used for pulling a dog sled, dog rig, a scooter, with skis or skates. It is not the type harness you would use to work a dog in weight pull.
Do not use a choke collar to teach you dog to pull. Use flat nylon webbing or leather collar with a good sturdy metal buckle or a semi slip sled dog type collar. There is a very very widely used dog collar, which has a plastic side release buckle. These are definitely not for sled dog training; they can and have broken at the buckle. To be safe with your dog, you don’t want that buckle to break and have your dog running scared and having to chase them, if you use proper equipment when working your dog, then you have more chance to keep them and you safe.
If you’ve purchased a new sled dog harness, you need to know how to fit it on your dog correctly. Firstly, take the tug, the loop at the back of the harness, then hold the harness in the air. If everything straight, the fleece padding should be to the inside of the harness.
If look at the harness; the fleeced 'X', should be towards the top of the harness. This will go up on the shoulder area of the dog. You will notice a fleeced 'breast plate, in the shape of a capital letter “Y”,' that is longer then the 'X' on the opposite side of the "head hole", that part goes along the dogs breast bone area, under the throat and neck.
Call your dog to you and if possible have the dog in a sitting position in front of you. Take the tug in you right hand, now run you left hand into the harness in the opposite direction that the dog will wear it. Everything but the breast plate that is padded will be over the dog's back. Now gently grab your dogs muzzle and pull the harness back over the neck of the dog. Now stop to pull all of the dog's collars, leads, tags and anything else you have on your dog forward past the harness. If you do not do this, your dog will be pulling with whatever you left under the harness digging into him. Your dogs comfort is really important.
Now lift the dog's right leg, and pull it through the leg whole, then repeat on your dogs left leg, and left side of the harness. Now take hold of the tug loop at the end of the harness and pull it backwards towards your dog’s tail. You have now successfully harnessed your dog.
When you take the harness off the dog you must do it slowly and un-harness one leg gently at a time, and again pulling the legs up, don’t try to pull your dogs legs out, this will only hurt them and the legs will not come out. Pull the harness off so that it does not turn itself inside out. When the harness is off the dog, hold the harness again by the loop and tug it and make sure it is straight so that the next time you get it out, it is ready for when you want to harness your dog up again. I recommend that you hang the harness by the rope tug loop between uses.
If for example, your dog has never worn a harness before, and, you want your dog to start working in harness, after your dog has the harness on for the first time, please reward your dog. Rewards can be anything, from food, game or a short walk. Really make a fuss over your dog wearing their harness, why not give the dog extra hugs and treats. Take the harness off, and don’t ever leave a dog unattended with a harness on, it may decide that the harness is a great chew toy, if that happens you’re then back at square one until it’s repaired.
The next stage is now down to you. You’ll need a tug line that is about 6 foot long. Also, either a small log or a small bike tire for your dog to pull along. If you choose a log for your dog to pull, you’ll need to drill a whole in the end and insert a screw in type eye bolt, this is where you will hook the tug line, and then to the dogs harness with a carabineer. If you have chosen a small tire, you will also need to drill into and through the tread with a bolt type eyebolt. It’s time to gather all the gear together, put the harness on your dog as well as attaching it’s lead to your dogs collar, then in your first hand and the tire and gang line which is attached to the carabineer in your free hand, I would suggest a carabineer for this job, as they are quick to attach and detach, and then take a small walk around the garden together with YOU pulling the log or tire. After all, you need to be sure that this is safe and strong enough for your dog to pull without hurting itself. Also, your dog needs time to get used to the sound of what you are pulling as well as getting used to seeing something 'following' the two of you. If the dog is afraid or anxious about this item or the sound of it, then reassure it and keep walking. Do not baby your dog, or they will never pull for you. That's the entire lesson that you should do for the day but repeat the same lesson for a few days.
How’s the training been going? Do you think your dog has adjusted to not only the item walking behind them, but the sound of it? If you think that your dog is ready for the next stage, then I would firstly take your dog for a quick walk to settle your dog down before the next stage of attaching your dogs harness to the item on the gang line via the carabineer. Now after the above training put the harness on the dog and make a big fuss over the dog, then attach the gang line it to the harness tug loop.
Here's the big moment, you have your dog in its harness, and your pulling item is attached to the gang line you are pulling it with. Do you have treats for your dog, because when your dog is doing a good job and you are calm and ready, then reward with a treat.
A word of warning, don’t ever let the pulling item hit the dog in the rear legs, this will undo any confidence your dog may have had. Now, put your dog on it’s lead that you are holding and then hook the item you want your dog to be pulling, on to your dogs harness, via the carabineer, and just simply start walking telling your dog "Pull, Good Dog", if your dog is afraid hold your confidence and keep walking holding a treat in front of the dog so that it moves toward your hand as your tell the dog, "Pull, Good Dog". Just let your dog pull long enough for the dog to get praise for the right behaviour, approximately 10 - 15 minutes. Some dogs, will just understand what working in harness is, other's however may take longer, and you’ll have to work with them, going over this process every day for a couple of weeks. Every dog is different, and can take to new activities and challenges at different learning time scales. Just keep praising and rewarding your dog.
When your dog is pulling the item with confidence, it’s then time to start using your vocal commands as you work your dog. When your dog is pulling and when you are just walking for fun, just introduce the word for stop, by saying "Whoa" this is the most important command, and I cannot stress this enough. Give the dog a "Hike On" command each time you want them to move forward in harness. When turning to the right use the command "Gee", and for turning left use, "Haw" (which sounds like “Ha”). If your dog stops to sniff you would use the command "On By" as you gently but firmly pull your dog forward and always ensure you praise your dog for correct behaviour. Have treats ready and be sure to make a huge fuss over your dog. Try to get the dog out in front of you rather then walking at your side. When your dog is understanding what you want of it, it is then time to try out your scooter or a even skates (that’s if you are brave enough to do so) and don’t forget your safety, and always use a helmet, gloves, knee and elbow pads and enlist some help from friend, just remember that to work at the beginning you need some help from a friend, just to be sure that your dog won’t run before you can walk!
Get a long lead for your dog and have a friend hold the lead with your dog attached to it. Then geet your scooter, rig or whatever piece of equipment you have chosen to pull ready with a six foot gang line attached. Have your friend move forward and then instruct your dog to "Hike" which is the vocal command that you will be using. Just remember, pay attention to what you are doing and to keep the gangline taut so you do not ride up and hit your dog on the back legs. Ensure you instruct your friend who’s helping you that you will be running with the dog (and you might well be picking up the pace). I would use suggest at this point you have another friend again to help hold your dog until you really feel really ready to "GO"! Always make sure that you have the correct equipment and that it is properly fitted when training or working your dog. Check it regularly to make ensure that it is in good condition, and repairs are made to keep it like new for long life. Most webbing harnesses are machine washable but not machine dryable, so always hang the harness that is clean and wet by the tug loop for 24 hours (they always come up looking as good as new after a good wash).
Other options to have your dog learn to pull are, after the dog is used to having the harness on and is used to pulling the log or tire, have a friend to ride a bike in front of your dog whilst your dog is pulling you. I would suggest you start this on level ground, or else you might pick up a speed that you aren’t comfortable with. If you are really lucky to have a friend or belong to a sled dog club that runs their dog in harness, have your dog follow them. I’ve found that dogs learn from other dogs, keep in mind that's also good and bad behaviour, and choose the dog that your dog can learn from with a bit of forethought. If your friend is obliging and your dog is well behaved and has showed promise in harness pulling the log or tire, then maybe your friend will let you hook your dog into their dog team, for a bit of experience. Please don’t be tempted to ask to drive the team of dogs, and if you are offered the opportunity wait until you have more experience and that you are fully sure that you can handle a dog team before going out in the driving seat so to speak, as not only do the dogs have to trust you know what you are doing, you have to trust the dog team to keep you safe!
To gain more knowledge your local library or nowadays the internet has 'lots' of information on sled dogs. There’s even a "Mushing" magazine, that you can subscribe to. There are also some really good clubs that have the knowledge and experience to help you with working your sled dog.
Training Your Dog Trail Manners
If your dog does not know how to behave on the trail, then do not enter an organised rally and race your dogs, you and your dogs are just not ready. It is unfair to the other racers for you to be out on the racing trail with dogs that don’t know the racing commands and that might ruin their race because of it.
There is nothing more frustrating for competitors, when in a race situation then to have spent the time and money to enter in to the race, only to have an untrained team of dogs get tangled into your team and ruin all chances of a good finish and race time. All sled dogs in my opinion must know the "On By" command and know it effectively.
If your dogs are dog aggressive and like to start fights, they are not suitable as racing dogs. I am sure no more needs to be said, however, fighting dogs, and this might happen any time dogs get together, are a risk and a menace to both other dogs and, other people in the vicinity of them also to the dogs in their own team and other sled dog teams. These are Dangerous Dogs and a liability. They have no business out on trails with other dogs or other people.
You rarely see dog fights at races or events as the majority of sled dog racers have respect for their dogs and other teams.
There is great deal going on at a sled dog rally or event, lots of dogs, food and people and noise and an exciting atmosphere. Please don't bring dogs that you are already aware or suspect that they could cause problems. It is not a situation that you should put your self, your dogs, or dogs on other teams, their owners, people working at the race, or members of the public who come along as spectators. You need to think about safety firstly, as to go reaching into a dog fight to stop it is never a good idea, so don’t put your dogs in that position in the first place.
If you intend to eventually enter your dog or dog team into a race, then you will need to do a lot of practise runs with other dog teams long before you load up to drive to your first race at Organized Sled Dog Rally. You need to know how your dog is going to act. Make sure your dog or dogs are trustworthy and dependable before you take them around other dogs or people.
Where You Can Run Your Dog In Harness
Your local forestry commission, will you need permission to use it. Often you will have to apply for an annual licence. However, you can check parks around where you live; many have trails wide and smooth enough to run a small team of dogs. Maybe someone you know lives out of town and have a privately owned property that you can run your dogs on? Better still if that person also has sled dogs and you can run your teams together. Maybe you have a local sled dog club that can suggest some trails that are suitable for dogs to run on?
You Only Have One Dog Or Two - Training Your Dog(S) To Pull A Scooter
Working your dogs in harness and riding along being pulled is exhilarating to say the very least. However, don’t be tempted to use a child’s scooter or even an adult version that isn’t specifically made for dog puling it’s extremely unsafe and they aren’t built to withstand the strength of the dog or the terrain that working dogs need. I have seen people use them with their dogs, and have had my heart in my mouth just waiting for them to come flying off it! For safety sake whether you are just practicing or taking part in a rally, I would highly recommend a helmet, knee and elbow pads and hiking boots too. I wear long pants and usually a long sleeved shirt, as accidents do happen and from experience cuts, grazes, broken bones are just an example, but with the right safety equipment and some common sense you can minimise the chances of a serious accident.
One dog will give plenty of power for a mile or two on a trail. Although, the maximum amount of dogs to to safely work on a scooter in my opinion is two dogs. Any more then you just don’t have to ability to balance the scooter effectively on turns on the trails.
There are also other ways to teach you dog to pull you on a scooter. Do you take your dog for a walk frequently on the same trail? If you do and can get your dog out a head of you, you can hook up and start down that same trail. Your dog should remember the route and you will go along just fine. I would however, strongly recommend that your dog knows the vocal sled dog commands before you even hook up and go for a ride. "Whoa" is your most important vocal command, it means stop! "Gee" (rhymes with see g as in gentle) is to turn right and "Haw" (sounds like Ha) is used to turn left. Then "On By" means not to carry on what your dog originally was doing and not to stop, turn, or chase that squirrel up that very tall tree! You also need a start your dog with the word like "Hike" or "Let's Go". The best way to teach your dog these vocal commands is with you at one end of a lead and your dog ahead of you on your daily walks, the younger that you start training your puppy/dog the better.
Do you have any friends that already have a dog or dogs that have been pulling a scooter or a sled? If you do why not see if you can follow them or if your friend will hook your dog in with their already trained team of sled dogs. If you are hooking your dog into the gang line with someone else's dog, please make sure that all the dogs get along with one another before the hook up.
When running your dog in harness dirt trails are always best, well, that and snow. Keep pavement pulling to a minimum as this will only serve to break down the pad and make them split and very sore. If you can, run your dog in the grass next to the pavement whenever possible. Start you dog out slowly adding miles they gain the muscle tone they need to race then build up stamina. Always watch your dog for stress and stop before you think the dog is tired, this will them always wanting more.
All different breeds of dogs and mixed breeds are pulling scooters these days! You do not have to own an Alaskan malamute or a Siberian husky to participate! Even a dog the size of a Springer Spaniel, can safety pull a small sized adult, and two Springer’s, can pull a small adult for quite a distance. In fact, a team of two Springer Spaniels used to pull a friend of mine on her scooter and take part in half marathons that was even before other breeds of dogs were popular working in harness.
The more time you spend with your dog the more time your dog will want to spend with you. The rewards of a tighter bond between the two of you, it is priceless. You may also notice that your dog is not acting out anymore such as barking less, digging your garden up a whole lot happier. Dogs love to work and they love to run! A happy dog is a tired dog!
If you find that you are running your dog more and more frequently in harness you may want to feed him just a bit more as he will be burning more calories. A high protein diet is advised in that case and make sure he has fresh water at all times. When you get back from running your dog, give it a small amount of water. Wait for a few minutes for the dog your dog to cool down, and then offer more fresh water to the dog. You do not want it to come in hot and drink a full bowl of water that could make the dog sick. Also don’t run your dog on a full stomach that is unless you want to see your dog’s breakfast twice!
Above all else think safety, not only for you but also the dog. You may want to carry a dog bootie in your pocket just in case your dog would hurt its paw while out on the trail. I also recommend Musher’s Secret Paw Wax, it’s great to use all year round, and has many uses. It’s not cheap, but it is worth it. Always take water and a bowl for your dog when going out on the trail. I carry dog treats with me so that if we take a break after the dog cools down a moment he can have a little something, and I do mean little though. Feeding to much during a break could be harmful.
The above is how I trained many dogs including my own my dogs to pull a scooter. I have now transitioned to using a rig as I have a few dogs, and it’s what works for me. This advice, it may or may not work for you. I can not be held responsible for accidents or injuries. It is up to you to train your dogs to keep your dogs and yourself safe.
Always start any dog training with the correct equipment. An x-back harness is used for pulling a dog sled, dog rig, a scooter, with skis or skates. It is not the type harness you would use to work a dog in weight pull.
Do not use a choke collar to teach you dog to pull. Use flat nylon webbing or leather collar with a good sturdy metal buckle or a semi slip sled dog type collar. There is a very very widely used dog collar, which has a plastic side release buckle. These are definitely not for sled dog training; they can and have broken at the buckle. To be safe with your dog, you don’t want that buckle to break and have your dog running scared and having to chase them, if you use proper equipment when working your dog, then you have more chance to keep them and you safe.
If you’ve purchased a new sled dog harness, you need to know how to fit it on your dog correctly. Firstly, take the tug, the loop at the back of the harness, then hold the harness in the air. If everything straight, the fleece padding should be to the inside of the harness.
If look at the harness; the fleeced 'X', should be towards the top of the harness. This will go up on the shoulder area of the dog. You will notice a fleeced 'breast plate, in the shape of a capital letter “Y”,' that is longer then the 'X' on the opposite side of the "head hole", that part goes along the dogs breast bone area, under the throat and neck.
Call your dog to you and if possible have the dog in a sitting position in front of you. Take the tug in you right hand, now run you left hand into the harness in the opposite direction that the dog will wear it. Everything but the breast plate that is padded will be over the dog's back. Now gently grab your dogs muzzle and pull the harness back over the neck of the dog. Now stop to pull all of the dog's collars, leads, tags and anything else you have on your dog forward past the harness. If you do not do this, your dog will be pulling with whatever you left under the harness digging into him. Your dogs comfort is really important.
Now lift the dog's right leg, and pull it through the leg whole, then repeat on your dogs left leg, and left side of the harness. Now take hold of the tug loop at the end of the harness and pull it backwards towards your dog’s tail. You have now successfully harnessed your dog.
When you take the harness off the dog you must do it slowly and un-harness one leg gently at a time, and again pulling the legs up, don’t try to pull your dogs legs out, this will only hurt them and the legs will not come out. Pull the harness off so that it does not turn itself inside out. When the harness is off the dog, hold the harness again by the loop and tug it and make sure it is straight so that the next time you get it out, it is ready for when you want to harness your dog up again. I recommend that you hang the harness by the rope tug loop between uses.
If for example, your dog has never worn a harness before, and, you want your dog to start working in harness, after your dog has the harness on for the first time, please reward your dog. Rewards can be anything, from food, game or a short walk. Really make a fuss over your dog wearing their harness, why not give the dog extra hugs and treats. Take the harness off, and don’t ever leave a dog unattended with a harness on, it may decide that the harness is a great chew toy, if that happens you’re then back at square one until it’s repaired.
The next stage is now down to you. You’ll need a tug line that is about 6 foot long. Also, either a small log or a small bike tire for your dog to pull along. If you choose a log for your dog to pull, you’ll need to drill a whole in the end and insert a screw in type eye bolt, this is where you will hook the tug line, and then to the dogs harness with a carabineer. If you have chosen a small tire, you will also need to drill into and through the tread with a bolt type eyebolt. It’s time to gather all the gear together, put the harness on your dog as well as attaching it’s lead to your dogs collar, then in your first hand and the tire and gang line which is attached to the carabineer in your free hand, I would suggest a carabineer for this job, as they are quick to attach and detach, and then take a small walk around the garden together with YOU pulling the log or tire. After all, you need to be sure that this is safe and strong enough for your dog to pull without hurting itself. Also, your dog needs time to get used to the sound of what you are pulling as well as getting used to seeing something 'following' the two of you. If the dog is afraid or anxious about this item or the sound of it, then reassure it and keep walking. Do not baby your dog, or they will never pull for you. That's the entire lesson that you should do for the day but repeat the same lesson for a few days.
How’s the training been going? Do you think your dog has adjusted to not only the item walking behind them, but the sound of it? If you think that your dog is ready for the next stage, then I would firstly take your dog for a quick walk to settle your dog down before the next stage of attaching your dogs harness to the item on the gang line via the carabineer. Now after the above training put the harness on the dog and make a big fuss over the dog, then attach the gang line it to the harness tug loop.
Here's the big moment, you have your dog in its harness, and your pulling item is attached to the gang line you are pulling it with. Do you have treats for your dog, because when your dog is doing a good job and you are calm and ready, then reward with a treat.
A word of warning, don’t ever let the pulling item hit the dog in the rear legs, this will undo any confidence your dog may have had. Now, put your dog on it’s lead that you are holding and then hook the item you want your dog to be pulling, on to your dogs harness, via the carabineer, and just simply start walking telling your dog "Pull, Good Dog", if your dog is afraid hold your confidence and keep walking holding a treat in front of the dog so that it moves toward your hand as your tell the dog, "Pull, Good Dog". Just let your dog pull long enough for the dog to get praise for the right behaviour, approximately 10 - 15 minutes. Some dogs, will just understand what working in harness is, other's however may take longer, and you’ll have to work with them, going over this process every day for a couple of weeks. Every dog is different, and can take to new activities and challenges at different learning time scales. Just keep praising and rewarding your dog.
When your dog is pulling the item with confidence, it’s then time to start using your vocal commands as you work your dog. When your dog is pulling and when you are just walking for fun, just introduce the word for stop, by saying "Whoa" this is the most important command, and I cannot stress this enough. Give the dog a "Hike On" command each time you want them to move forward in harness. When turning to the right use the command "Gee", and for turning left use, "Haw" (which sounds like “Ha”). If your dog stops to sniff you would use the command "On By" as you gently but firmly pull your dog forward and always ensure you praise your dog for correct behaviour. Have treats ready and be sure to make a huge fuss over your dog. Try to get the dog out in front of you rather then walking at your side. When your dog is understanding what you want of it, it is then time to try out your scooter or a even skates (that’s if you are brave enough to do so) and don’t forget your safety, and always use a helmet, gloves, knee and elbow pads and enlist some help from friend, just remember that to work at the beginning you need some help from a friend, just to be sure that your dog won’t run before you can walk!
Get a long lead for your dog and have a friend hold the lead with your dog attached to it. Then geet your scooter, rig or whatever piece of equipment you have chosen to pull ready with a six foot gang line attached. Have your friend move forward and then instruct your dog to "Hike" which is the vocal command that you will be using. Just remember, pay attention to what you are doing and to keep the gangline taut so you do not ride up and hit your dog on the back legs. Ensure you instruct your friend who’s helping you that you will be running with the dog (and you might well be picking up the pace). I would use suggest at this point you have another friend again to help hold your dog until you really feel really ready to "GO"! Always make sure that you have the correct equipment and that it is properly fitted when training or working your dog. Check it regularly to make ensure that it is in good condition, and repairs are made to keep it like new for long life. Most webbing harnesses are machine washable but not machine dryable, so always hang the harness that is clean and wet by the tug loop for 24 hours (they always come up looking as good as new after a good wash).
Other options to have your dog learn to pull are, after the dog is used to having the harness on and is used to pulling the log or tire, have a friend to ride a bike in front of your dog whilst your dog is pulling you. I would suggest you start this on level ground, or else you might pick up a speed that you aren’t comfortable with. If you are really lucky to have a friend or belong to a sled dog club that runs their dog in harness, have your dog follow them. I’ve found that dogs learn from other dogs, keep in mind that's also good and bad behaviour, and choose the dog that your dog can learn from with a bit of forethought. If your friend is obliging and your dog is well behaved and has showed promise in harness pulling the log or tire, then maybe your friend will let you hook your dog into their dog team, for a bit of experience. Please don’t be tempted to ask to drive the team of dogs, and if you are offered the opportunity wait until you have more experience and that you are fully sure that you can handle a dog team before going out in the driving seat so to speak, as not only do the dogs have to trust you know what you are doing, you have to trust the dog team to keep you safe!
To gain more knowledge your local library or nowadays the internet has 'lots' of information on sled dogs. There’s even a "Mushing" magazine, that you can subscribe to. There are also some really good clubs that have the knowledge and experience to help you with working your sled dog.
Training Your Dog Trail Manners
If your dog does not know how to behave on the trail, then do not enter an organised rally and race your dogs, you and your dogs are just not ready. It is unfair to the other racers for you to be out on the racing trail with dogs that don’t know the racing commands and that might ruin their race because of it.
There is nothing more frustrating for competitors, when in a race situation then to have spent the time and money to enter in to the race, only to have an untrained team of dogs get tangled into your team and ruin all chances of a good finish and race time. All sled dogs in my opinion must know the "On By" command and know it effectively.
If your dogs are dog aggressive and like to start fights, they are not suitable as racing dogs. I am sure no more needs to be said, however, fighting dogs, and this might happen any time dogs get together, are a risk and a menace to both other dogs and, other people in the vicinity of them also to the dogs in their own team and other sled dog teams. These are Dangerous Dogs and a liability. They have no business out on trails with other dogs or other people.
You rarely see dog fights at races or events as the majority of sled dog racers have respect for their dogs and other teams.
There is great deal going on at a sled dog rally or event, lots of dogs, food and people and noise and an exciting atmosphere. Please don't bring dogs that you are already aware or suspect that they could cause problems. It is not a situation that you should put your self, your dogs, or dogs on other teams, their owners, people working at the race, or members of the public who come along as spectators. You need to think about safety firstly, as to go reaching into a dog fight to stop it is never a good idea, so don’t put your dogs in that position in the first place.
If you intend to eventually enter your dog or dog team into a race, then you will need to do a lot of practise runs with other dog teams long before you load up to drive to your first race at Organized Sled Dog Rally. You need to know how your dog is going to act. Make sure your dog or dogs are trustworthy and dependable before you take them around other dogs or people.
Where You Can Run Your Dog In Harness
Your local forestry commission, will you need permission to use it. Often you will have to apply for an annual licence. However, you can check parks around where you live; many have trails wide and smooth enough to run a small team of dogs. Maybe someone you know lives out of town and have a privately owned property that you can run your dogs on? Better still if that person also has sled dogs and you can run your teams together. Maybe you have a local sled dog club that can suggest some trails that are suitable for dogs to run on?
You Only Have One Dog Or Two - Training Your Dog(S) To Pull A Scooter
Working your dogs in harness and riding along being pulled is exhilarating to say the very least. However, don’t be tempted to use a child’s scooter or even an adult version that isn’t specifically made for dog puling it’s extremely unsafe and they aren’t built to withstand the strength of the dog or the terrain that working dogs need. I have seen people use them with their dogs, and have had my heart in my mouth just waiting for them to come flying off it! For safety sake whether you are just practicing or taking part in a rally, I would highly recommend a helmet, knee and elbow pads and hiking boots too. I wear long pants and usually a long sleeved shirt, as accidents do happen and from experience cuts, grazes, broken bones are just an example, but with the right safety equipment and some common sense you can minimise the chances of a serious accident.
One dog will give plenty of power for a mile or two on a trail. Although, the maximum amount of dogs to to safely work on a scooter in my opinion is two dogs. Any more then you just don’t have to ability to balance the scooter effectively on turns on the trails.
There are also other ways to teach you dog to pull you on a scooter. Do you take your dog for a walk frequently on the same trail? If you do and can get your dog out a head of you, you can hook up and start down that same trail. Your dog should remember the route and you will go along just fine. I would however, strongly recommend that your dog knows the vocal sled dog commands before you even hook up and go for a ride. "Whoa" is your most important vocal command, it means stop! "Gee" (rhymes with see g as in gentle) is to turn right and "Haw" (sounds like Ha) is used to turn left. Then "On By" means not to carry on what your dog originally was doing and not to stop, turn, or chase that squirrel up that very tall tree! You also need a start your dog with the word like "Hike" or "Let's Go". The best way to teach your dog these vocal commands is with you at one end of a lead and your dog ahead of you on your daily walks, the younger that you start training your puppy/dog the better.
Do you have any friends that already have a dog or dogs that have been pulling a scooter or a sled? If you do why not see if you can follow them or if your friend will hook your dog in with their already trained team of sled dogs. If you are hooking your dog into the gang line with someone else's dog, please make sure that all the dogs get along with one another before the hook up.
When running your dog in harness dirt trails are always best, well, that and snow. Keep pavement pulling to a minimum as this will only serve to break down the pad and make them split and very sore. If you can, run your dog in the grass next to the pavement whenever possible. Start you dog out slowly adding miles they gain the muscle tone they need to race then build up stamina. Always watch your dog for stress and stop before you think the dog is tired, this will them always wanting more.
All different breeds of dogs and mixed breeds are pulling scooters these days! You do not have to own an Alaskan malamute or a Siberian husky to participate! Even a dog the size of a Springer Spaniel, can safety pull a small sized adult, and two Springer’s, can pull a small adult for quite a distance. In fact, a team of two Springer Spaniels used to pull a friend of mine on her scooter and take part in half marathons that was even before other breeds of dogs were popular working in harness.
The more time you spend with your dog the more time your dog will want to spend with you. The rewards of a tighter bond between the two of you, it is priceless. You may also notice that your dog is not acting out anymore such as barking less, digging your garden up a whole lot happier. Dogs love to work and they love to run! A happy dog is a tired dog!
If you find that you are running your dog more and more frequently in harness you may want to feed him just a bit more as he will be burning more calories. A high protein diet is advised in that case and make sure he has fresh water at all times. When you get back from running your dog, give it a small amount of water. Wait for a few minutes for the dog your dog to cool down, and then offer more fresh water to the dog. You do not want it to come in hot and drink a full bowl of water that could make the dog sick. Also don’t run your dog on a full stomach that is unless you want to see your dog’s breakfast twice!
Above all else think safety, not only for you but also the dog. You may want to carry a dog bootie in your pocket just in case your dog would hurt its paw while out on the trail. I also recommend Musher’s Secret Paw Wax, it’s great to use all year round, and has many uses. It’s not cheap, but it is worth it. Always take water and a bowl for your dog when going out on the trail. I carry dog treats with me so that if we take a break after the dog cools down a moment he can have a little something, and I do mean little though. Feeding to much during a break could be harmful.
The above is how I trained many dogs including my own my dogs to pull a scooter. I have now transitioned to using a rig as I have a few dogs, and it’s what works for me. This advice, it may or may not work for you. I can not be held responsible for accidents or injuries. It is up to you to train your dogs to keep your dogs and yourself safe.
